Prague, Czech Republic. October 12-15, 1999

My written narrative ends at this point so John and I have put our heads together to try to remember the three days we were in Prague.  Eileen drives us to the train station and we take a train to Prague. The train ride takes four and a half hours and we are in Prague by early afternoon.

We are somewhat flummoxed when we get to the station in Prague as there does not seem to be any onward transportation to get to our hotel. But people are helpful and direct us to another nearby building.  By helpful I mean that they want to walk us to the building and we are somewhat freaked out by them. We buy a ticket for the tram/bus and it takes us near to our hotel which is an old converted convent near the river. The picture below from the internet is where we think we stayed. The name has been changed.

Hotel Casa Marcello

Our hotel is near to the Vitava River and there is a pleasant walkway that takes you into the city. From the river you can see the castle complex looming over part of Prague.

View of castle complex from across the river

I cannot pretend to know what order we did things in but let’s say that since we only had part of the afternoon left that we walked into the city and saw their famous mechanical clock and the city square. We may have searched fruitlessly for the entrance to Tyn Church whose towers are very visible but whose entrance is not.

Famous clock

We also walk back and forth over the Charles Bridge spanning the Vitava River. It is a famous, now pedestrian bridge and has many statues of saints and lots of artist and performers plying their trades. John and I need to take pictures of one another on the bridge holding our Prague tour book (in case someone might have mistakened us as locals!)

John with Prague travel guide
Mary on bridge

The first night we are in Prague, we are very interested in trying some authentic Czech food and find a restaurant where we eat a very heavy meal of goulash and compressed bread dumplings. Not known at the time, but the gravy served with the goulash is made from a beet and beef stock. When our bodies finished processing our dinner, our poop is a very disturbing color! It took us a day or two to figure out whether it was something we ate or we were dying!

The second day we are in Prague we visit the castle complex. It is enormous and consists of many buildings including a cathedral and an old church. We rent an audio tour guide to help us navigate.

Castle tour

After our very lengthy tour we are looking for a way to get back to our hotel when an elderly gentleman sees that we are flummoxed and offers to help us. Once again we are taken aback by the friendly, helpful people but we warm to him and let him escort us to the correct stop for the tram/bus. During our conversation he thanks us (Americans) for winning World War II. It is very touching. He tells us how he had lost most of his hearing due to artillery concussions. I wonder if he walks along that stretch of road daily finding lost Americans to thank.

On both the second and third nights we eat at Taverna Toscana, a downstairs restaurant near the mechanical clock. We are happy to eat Italian food after our bad experience with Czech offerings. Our waiter speaks six different languages. While we are  there he waits on tables that he converses with in English, Spanish, and Italian. He tells us that he wants to emigrate to the US but that getting a visa is very difficult. We feel America is missing out on an exceptionally talented and able man.

On our last day we visit the Jewish quarter and cemetery. We also go to this area with Sarah on a subsequent trip. It is a somber and anguishing visit. So many people slaughtered. It is so unimaginable that it is a good thing that these monuments to the horror exist.

Later that night we go to a concert in a church. As you walk around Prague people in period costume dress are hawking tickets. I do not remember what we heard. Maybe Vivaldi? Smetana?

  Outside venue for concert

We catch the train back to Vienna where we end up sitting across from a family from Danville, CA. It is a small world.

It has been a long and interesting trip through Europe. Most of the places we visited we will visit again over the next twenty years. There is always something new to see and learn.

 

Vienna. October 12, 1999

Today Eileen, our intrepid tour guide, takes us into Vienna again to visit the art museum or Kunsthistorisches Museum. They have an extensive Flemish and Dutch section which includes a Vermeer. There are also many fine Brueghel, Rubens, Raphael, and Titian paintings represented in their collection. John and I love going to art museums so we had a splendid time.

Mary and John outside the art museum in Vienna
Vermeer’s The Art of Painting at the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna

After our visit to the art museum we stop at a Spanish restaurant for lunch. John has a potato omelet and pork chop and I have a chicken breast. There are lots of vegetables which is a real treat since Germanic food is heavy on protein and starch.

In the afternoon we visit St. Stephen’s Cathedral which we had been to when we went to Vienna with Oracle. It is a large Gothic structure. I have to admit that the churches all start looking the same after a while. (I will change my mind about this as the years go by.) Interestingly the architect put his likeness in two different places in the cathedral.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral or Stephansdom in Vienna (Wikipedia photo)

Tonight for dinner we have pate and wine for dinner. We laugh and talk with Eileen and Jim for a while but we need an early night since we are exhausted and will be traveling to Prague tomorrow.

Visiting the Kendalls, Grinzing and Vienna. October 11, 1999

We are staying with our very good friends, Eileen and Jim Kendall. They were our next door neighbors in Massachusetts. Jim recently accepted a position with the U.N.’s IAEA. It is wonderful to see them again and exciting to be in Austria. We will also take a short trip to Prague while here.

Eileen, Jim, and Mary at the Kendall’s apartment in Grinzing

In the morning we take a ride up to Kahlenberg overlooking the city of Vienna. We see some farm animals and I am remembered always as calling, sheep, sheep, sheep, and having the sheep run over. According to this picture, there are some goats there as well.

Mary, Eileen, and goat friend

Next we stop at a church in Kahlenberg dedicated to the Polish king John III Sobieski. He was the commander in the Battle of Vienna which took place at Kahlenberg Mountain near Vienna in 1683. Vienna had been besieged by the Ottoman Empire for two months. The battle was fought by the Holy Roman Empire against the Ottoman Empire. The H.R.E. prevailed and a church was built in honor of Sobieski.

Mary and Eileen near the church dedicated to King John III Sobieski
Mary and John near Kahlenberg Mountain

After lunch back at Eileen’s we go into the Vienna and visit the Hofburg palace. We take the audio tour describing the rooms. The audio talks a lot about Elizabeth, the wife of Franz Josef, who was very discontent. She had homes all over the world and spent her time traveling around. She was also an exercise fanatic.

Mary and Eileen at the palace

After returning to Grinzing we have a dinner of wine and hors d’oeuvres, my favorite!!

Mary and Eileen

Mauthausen Concentration Camp and on to Grinzing, Austria. October 10, 1999

The day starts off rainy again as we leave Hallstatt. We go through the mountains and it is a beautiful drive up to the A1. The rain stops by noon. We drive to the Mauthausen Concentration Camp. “As at other Nazi concentration camps, the inmates at Mauthausen and its subcamps were forced to work as slave labour, under conditions that caused many deaths. Mauthausen and its subcamps included quarries, munitions factories, mines, arms factories and plants assembling fighter aircraft. In January 1945, the camps contained roughly 85,000 inmates. The death toll remains unknown, although most sources place it between 122,766 and 320,000 for the entire complex.” (Wikipedia) There are barracks and a museum. We see a short film on the horror. There is a gas chamber. Many memorials from different countries are represented on the grounds. It is a somber and difficult visit.

John at Mauthausen
View approaching the camp
Jewish memorial

Then we drive to the Kendalls, buying a map along the way. They have a lovely apartment in Grinzing, a suburb of Vienna. We have a wonderful time visiting and eating Eileen’s great dinner. They will be putting us up for the next couple of days.

Hallstatt and Obertraum, Austria. October 9, 1999

Today starts off rainy. We watch the little train on the other side of the lake and the little ferry crossing the lake make their rounds. As the rain lets up we make our way to the pre-historic museum and then do some shopping. As you can see from this picture of the museum, Hallstatt is built on a narrow strip of land next to the lake and the mountains rise right behind it.

Hallstatt Museum (Wikipedia)

Later in the day we drive over to Obertraum and take the Dachsteinerbahn, a gondola, that goes up the mountain. We go up two stages and then walk around in the snow to take pictures! The day clears up for us and we have a beautiful vista of the lake, Obertraum and Hallstatt on the way down.

The gondola
A waterfall
It is winter up here on the mountain!
John in the Austrian snow

When we get back down and into Hallstatt it is overrun with tourists! It is such a small place that it does not take many tourists to make it crowded. They will need to find a way to manage tourism while still reaping the benefits economically. We find a place to have some pizza and beer as an early dinner or very late lunch. After that we are ready for a quiet evening reading.

 

Salzburg and Hallstatt, Austria. October 8, 1999

Today is our departure day from Munich. After a false start trying to find the Autobahn 8, we take a route we are familiar with. We go west out of Munich and then get off and turn around heading east. For some reason either they did not make an east entrance or we simply cannot find it!

Traffic is pretty heavy and we get to Salzburg around 1 PM. We look through their cathedral and then take the audio tour of the Residenz, former home of the Prince Bishops. It is very elaborate, like a smaller Versailles. There are lots of Alexander the Great frescoes on the ceilings. We see many original and period furnishings with many fine mirrors and clocks. We enjoy the tour very much.

Mary listening to the audio tour at the Prince Bishop’s Residenz, Salzburg

We look around for lunch but cannot find anything so we push on to Hallstatt. It is a beautiful ride through the mountains, lakes, and villages. Hallstatt turns out to be a tiny town on a lake. What a beautiful setting. Our hotel, the Gruner Baum, is not as charming as I had hoped but we have a deck overlooking the lake and a very large bathroom. Alas, it is a no shower curtain kind of bath/shower combo.

Hotel Gruner Baum

John on the deck overlooking the lake
Mary on the deck overlooking the lake
The lake

For dinner we go to the Gersthofen Zauner. I order Vienner schnitzel and John has spare ribs. We also order a salad and cauliflower au gratin in hopes of eating some vegetables.

Restaurant

The television in our room only has two stations. Both are in German so we do not stay up very late!

Munich and environs. October 7, 1999

We start the day with a trip into Munich on the U-bahn to the Staatsgalerie Moderner Kunst. (State Modern Art Museum) We walk through the beautiful Hofgarten of Royal Garden along the way. In the museum there is an impressive collection of Klee and Kitchener and some Picassos and Kandinsky.  I think, though, I enjoy the smaller museum in Stuttgart.

John outside Staatsgalerie Moderner Kunst Museum
Mary at Royal Garden

In the afternoon we go to Hersching to see  Andechs Monastery and eat lunch at the Andechser Hof. The monks brew beer at the monastery and it is served at the Hof. The weiss beer is very good but maybe not as good as Schneider’s.  John has maulthaschen which is a layered noodle and minced beef dish and I had the standard wurst and kraut.  My wurst and kraut meal is fine but I think I have had it enough times this trip!

Andechser Hof
Maulthaschen

After a very uphill walk we visit the monastery. I am very taken aback by the baroque, gilded church. First, why spend so much money on decoration when the money could have been spent on poor people.  Second, why did all these “devout” people stand by while the Nazis killed millions.

Interior of Andechs Monastery church

Later, back in our room, we watch Agassi play Escude. It is incredible that Agassi won! All the excitement of the match means that I stay up until almost 11 PM! Maybe I am finally over jet lag!?

P.S. Spoke with Sarah. She seems happy and is full of news.

Munich. October 6, 1999

Today we take the S2 into the Hauptbahnhof and find the “Times Square,” a cyber cafe. We check our email and are happy to find a note from Sarah. We write back to both Jon and Sarah. As an aside I remember how difficult it was to find internet around this time. We sought out bars, bicycle shops, and other hotel lobbies hoping to find a place to connect. Soon we decided not to stay anywhere that we could not get connected.

Times Square, “online bistro”

We reboard the train and go to the Isotar  stop where the Deutches Museum is located. It is an industry and technology museum. We look at exhibits about food science, telecommunications, computers, electronic toys, musical instruments, bridge building and lots of others. It is all very interesting especially when there are some English explanations.

John at the Deutsches Museum
John at beer exhibit

After our visit we have a late lunch/early dinner at Buon Gusto, an Italian restaurant. John has risotto and Ichoose veal Marsala. While we are there we watch a film crew set up for a TV interview with the chef who used to be an actor. He is very short! John and the waiter speak a sort of Italian to each other. This is a very nice break from German food.

Buon Gusto

Lastly we head over to the Viktualen Markt for some wine and cheese. Good thing! When we get back to the room we discover that the room cleaners had thrown out all our pretzels and crackers!!

 

Munich. October 5, 1999

I wake up today and my hip is killing me. So many hard beds have gotten to me. It is too painful to bend over!  I take some ibuprofen that we have brought along and think about how I am going to manage sightseeing feeling like this? We go to breakfast at the hotel. I am getting used to having cold cuts for breakfast.

The first thing we do is drive to Pasing where we search out a Citibank. We need to get some Czech money for later in the trip. They tell us that we can only get it at the Citibank in central Munich. Nothing is easy.

We have decided to visit the Alte Pinakothek to see the art they have housed there. They do not have a parking lot or structure. It is just on-the-street parking. Round and round we drive making bigger circles away from the museum.  I am ready to give up but John is still trying. Finally we find someone pulling out of a space about 5 blocks away. Then we hike to the museum. Inside the pinakothek we love especially the Brueghels and Durer self-portrait.

Dürer self portrait in fur lined robe, 1500

After we finish at the museum we go to a U-bahn stop and buy a 3-day pass. We take the train into Marienplatz, the main square of Munich. We find the Citibank and buy the Czech korunas that we will need. We stop for a late lunch at Schneider’s. We dine on wurst und kraut und bier. Yum! Here I will find a life long love of their Weissbier, known as Tap 7. It is the beer we have at our Christmas celebrations, even now some 21 years later.

John is front of Schneider’s

 

Mary in front of Schneider’s

Lastly we do a little grocery shopping and buy some wine and munchies which we will eat for dinner. We take the U-bahn back to where we parked the car (so glad we could find it again) and then drive back to our hotel.

Feuchtwangen, Dinkelsbuhl, Nördlingen, Munich. 10/4/99

Today we leave Rothenburg. It is just as well since we are both sore from the hard bed.

Our first stop is in Feuchtwangen. We visit St. John’s church and its cloister. This church was built in the mid-13th century and still has vestiges of its frescoes.

I think these are frescoes from Johanneskirche (St. John’s in Feuchtwangen.) Over the door is a crucifixion scene and the lower right figure is of St. Christopher while the one on the left appears to be a king
Here is Christ in the center with the icons of the gospel writers around him

Then it is on to Dinkelsbuhl to visit St. George’s church. It is quite large and has many altars.

John somewhere in one of these towns

Finally we head toward Nördlingen. In our travel guide it tells us that Nördlingen is built in the very large crater of a meteorite. The impact was so intense that much of the carbon in the area fused into tiny diamonds.  Many of the older buildings in Nördlingen are built with diamond encrusted rock. The church we have come to see is not open.

Nordlingen

At this point we decide we have seen enough medieval stuff and proceed to western Munich to our hotel, the Insel Muhle. Since I have made a navigating error we buy a map of the area from the hotel. We are on the third floor of an old converted mill. Our bedroom is in a loft area while the bathroom is on the floor below. We will see how that works out! We eat dinner at the hotel, enjoying sauerbraten and tornados. The food is fine but quite expensive. We are really tired and in bed by 9 PM.

Insel Muhle

Always an important picture, John with the rental car